Phase 1 : Understanding Wave Motion and its Characteristics

Starting With the Quest .

 Let us go through some basics of
  Wave motion characteristics and key ingredients to deal with.

A~. Inertia
It is essential to assign to the wave generator a small inertia sufficient to assume rigidity and solidity. To enable the member~ to resist  stresses, it is necessary to increase the dimensions, hence the mass and,consequently, the inertia of these members •.This  increase . involves two detrimental effects: the . required motor power to.overcome the passive resistances and the inertia forces is greatly increased, and the motion .,' is quite irregular because. of these forces.

B;, Maintenance
Maintenance of the apparatus similarly poses problems to the designers •. It is necessary to avoid as much as possible using in the water any delicate members, articulations, bearings, rollers, or gears. In addition to the danger of corrosion, it is essential to remember that the water often contains sand either in the model structures as such or because the. model comprises a mobile bed.

C. Reflection
In reality, the waves reflect .'from a given structure tend to depart seaward where they become dissipated; in a model, however, they recoil toward the Wave generator. Both theory (presented subsequently in Biesels 13 article) and practice show that most wave generators are quite reflective.

There seem to exist two remedies for this disadvantage.
a) The first is the use of a filter
b)The second is the use of' special method Or wave generators with little reflection